Tuesday, May 24, 2022

May 8, 2022 - Day 39 - Glenelg and Skye and single track roads.

 After an in-room breakfast of apples and shortbread cookies that were leftover from our bag lunch on the ferry, plus instant coffee and tea (there isn't a hotel in the UK, I'm willing to bet, that has real coffee in the guest rooms, it's all instant. However, the selection of tea is always pretty great, even if it is in teabags, and sometimes that's just the better choice. I've learned to embrace the morning tea with milk while staying in hotels) we set out to take some pictures in the morning light.






We then drove back about 8 miles on the road we drove in on to see some of the views that we had missed the night before:







We then turned around and set off for Glenelg where we would go drive on a single track road with great views, go  looking for brochs (towers), and the Glenelg ferry. This route was suggested by our friends, Ian and Jacqui, who we are going to stay with on the Isle of Skye for a few days. It's a much more interesting route than taking the land bridge to Skye and they needed time to clean up after their last B&B guests were gone, so we planned on getting there after 3pm that day. We stopped in Cloine for lunch (very overpriced although good food) and I decided, once again, to not try the haggis.




On the road again with frequent stops to take pictures.



We then turned off of the route we originally were going to take to the Isle of Skye, over the land bridge, and went by way of Glenelg in order to stop and see the brochs (towers) and to take the turntable type Glenelg ferry, the only working turntable ferry in the world today. This route was a suggestion from Jacqui and Ian and it was a magnificent, but harrowing drive, a lot of single track road.











The ferry to the Isle of Skye from Glenelg, the MV Glenachulish, is the last manually operated turntable ferry in the world. There has been a car ferry service crossing the Kylerhea straits since 1934, however, the closest point to the Isle of Skye has been a crossing point for hundreds of years.



The ferry crossing took only about 5 minutes, you can see the Isle of Skye across the water.

The road over the Kylerhea pass is the highest road on Skye and all single track road (single track roads are very narrow and just one lane wide, if you see oncoming vehicles you both are supposed to be looking for the "passing place" a wider spot in the road, marked with a small white sign, where you pull over to let the other vehicles pass). It was a wild and beautiful drive but we got very few pictures because there are no places to pull over really.



Oh, and you have to look out for sheep also.

When we left the road from Kylerhea and got on a larger, two-lane road, we started seeing familiar sites from when we had visited Skye in 2019. We didn't need the GPS after that, we knew where we were on the island and found our hosts' home with no problem. After greetings and unpacking we set off, with Ian and Jacqui, for the Three Chimneys restauarant just down the road. Don and I had wisely made reservations before we even left Minnesota weeks before, the restaurants on Skye are very good and book up quickly. We had a truly wonderful meal.
Oysters with shallots and seaweed vinegar

Cooked oyster with black batter & seaweed mayonnaise.

Double dived Sconser scallaps with smoked salmon, roe parfait

Dressed oysters with gin granita

Wild Rabbit terrine, duck liver parfait, pistachio and almonds

Haggis with salt baked neeps, fermented crispy potato, Tailisker 10yo sauce

Colbost Croft duck egg (from Ian and Jacqui's neighbor's ducks) apple, celeriac, fig puree

Twice baked souffle, blue cheese, alums, potato dumplings

Skye Vatten beef, asparagus, wild garlic, onion Bhaji

Wild halibut, potato terrine, smoked mussels, leeks

Assiette of Pear, custard parfaid, croissant ice cream, caramel

Duck egg custard, forced rhubarb, hibiscus, meringue

Selection of Scottish & British cheeses, oatcakes, crackers, pickles & preserves








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