Tuesday, June 7, 2022

May 20, 2022 - Day 51 - Stockholm, Sweden

 Yesterday, the 19th, was a day lost to travel: left our place around noon and took a taxi from Rostrevor to Newry (about a 20 minute ride), then the Translink bus to the Dublin airport (about a 1 1/2 hour ride), then waiting around in the Dublin airport to board our plane to Amsterdam. The plane was delayed and we were worried about missing our connection in Amsterdam to Stockholm, but we were to find out that almost ALL of the flights in and out of Amsterdam Schiphol airport are delayed all the time, so making our connection was no problem as THAT plane was delayed. We finally landed after 11pm and with the taxi ride (about 45 minutes) to Maria's home in the Sodermalm district of Stockholm we didn't get to sleep until almost 1am.

"Stockholm (Swedish: [ˈstɔ̂kː(h)ɔlm] (listen))[8] is the capital and largest city of Sweden as well as the largest urban area in Scandinavia. Approximately 980,000 people live in the municipality,[9] with 1.6 million in the urban area,[6] and 2.4 million in the metropolitan area.[9] The city stretches across fourteen islands where Lake Mälaren flows into the Baltic Sea. Outside the city to the east, and along the coast, is the island chain of the Stockholm archipelago. The area has been settled since the Stone Age, in the 6th millennium BC, and was founded as a city in 1252 by Swedish statesman Birger Jarl. It is also the county seat of Stockholm County and for several hundred years was the capital of Finland as well (Finnish: Tukholma) which then was a part of Sweden. The population of Stockholm is expected to reach one million people in 2022.[10]" Bold emphasis is mine.

 The next morning Maria made some strong coffee for us in an old fashioned percolator that she has had for years (I love that coffee pot!) She gave us each a transit card and told us to be at her job (Radio Stockholm) by 10:30 so we could tour the building before seeing a concert at noon. She then went off to work and we had a light breakfast and unpacked the rest of our clothing for the week we would be spending with Maria. 

A little background on how we met Maria: she had originally contacted us on HomeExchange.com in 2016 about a possible visit because she is a huge fan of Prince and his music. We weren't able to set something up until 2017 when we had an exchange with a family in Finland, we stayed for four short days in her home at the end of that trip. She was on her way to Lappland for her midsummer vacation but graciously allowed us to stay in her home while she was gone. We were able to return the favor in 2018 when she stayed with us for 10 days in April while she went to many concerts and activities celebrating Prince's life and music. 

It was nice to be back in Stockholm and this time to spend that time with Maria in her city.

Don and I took the bus to Radio Stockholm and walked just two blocks in light rain to the building. That was the only time we encountered rain on our week in Stockholm, quite a change from Northern Ireland!

Maria showing us the studio she used to work in.
Pre-concert set up.
GRANT - Swedish alt pop star. She was quite good and sang in English.
Walking around and looking for a place for lunch. One of the many bridges that connects Stockholm, a city made up of 14 islands.

We ate here at Strand 54. Don had spinach and cheese pierogies and I had pasta. Both were quite good.

Former water tower turned into condos.


Entrance to Mosebacketerrassen, an outdoor plaza with bars and restaurants and a great view.


Even though the sun was shining it was cold! We finished our drinks quickly and walked back to Maria's place.
The same mural we saw in 2017.
Maria was meeting a friend for dinner and a concert so we ate at La Neta, a Mexican fast food place that had excellent tacos al pastor and refried beans, and the added advantage of being only a few blocks away. Maria lives at the top of a steep hill so we were happy to find a place just a few blocks away to eat.

Maria lives on the fourth floor of a building on the historical register, it has tall ceilings and we walked these spiral stairs many times.

Sunday, June 5, 2022

May 14 - 19, 2022 - Days 45 - 50 - Goodbye to Rostrevor and hello to Stockholm!

 We ate breakfast at Starbucks this time since Costa Coffee was open yet, packed up, checked out of the Radisson Blu, and drove out of Edinburgh. This was much easier on an early Saturday morning, hardly any traffic. We drove back to Cairnryan and caught the ferry back to Belfast and then drove to Rostrevor. This was the last time I drove the car and I was happy to park it for good, no more round-abouts, no more single track roads, no more sitting on the opposite side of the car and shifting with my left hand while driving on the opposite side of the road.


Lovely little cafe on the beach somewhere in Scotland where we had lunch.

There was a lovely full moon that night and we tried to get a decent picture of it while walking around Rostrevor.




For the next couple of days Don worked, and I cleaned the house so it would be ready for our hosts when they came home, and I did laundry in preparation for our trip to Stockholm. We also walked around Rostrevor one last time whenever the weather permitted, it had rained quite a bit and the Kilbroney River was quite high.

The Carlingford Lock with the mist shrouded Mourne Mountains in the background.


We had never seen the Kilbroney River this wide as it feeds into the Carlingford Loch.
Don takes amazing pictures, I think this one belongs on a postcard.



We had a bit of a worry when we found out a few days before we were to leave for Sweden that the Translink bus service was going to be on strike again. They were our only way to get from the Newry Bus Center to the Dublin airport about a 1 1/2 hour trip. It would have cost us close to $200 to take a taxi all the way to Dublin. However, they didn't go on strike and we were able to take a cab to just to the Newry Bus Center and then catch the bus to Dublin Airport. Here is the canal in Newry as seen from the bus station.

And here we are, landing in Amsterdam. Our flight to Stockholm from there was delayed and we didn't arrive until after 11pm. We then took a very expensive (695 krona, or about $70 USD) cab ride to Maria's home.


May 13, 2022 - Day 44 - The castle in Edinburgh

Not wanting to eat breakfast in the hotel again we went in search of something else. We ended up at a Costa Coffee, the British coffee chain, and had breakfast sandwiches and real coffee. We then bought our tickets to Edinburgh castle on-line and walked about four - five blocks, all uphill, to get in line and wait for the castle to open.

The view from the wall before you enter the castle.



"Edinburgh Castle is a historic castle in Edinburgh, Scotland. It stands on Castle Rock, which has been occupied by humans since at least the Iron Age, although the nature of the early settlement is unclear. There has been a royal castle on the rock since at least the reign of David I in the 12th century, and the site continued to be a royal residence until 1633. From the 15th century, the castle's residential role declined, and by the 17th century it was principally used as military barracks with a large garrison. Its importance as a part of Scotland's national heritage was recognised increasingly from the early 19th century onwards, and various restoration programmes have been carried out over the past century and a half. " Wikipedia

You can see this castle for miles around, it's huge and it's on a huge rock. There were lots of pictures of the place from my previous post when we were on the bus, it would be a pretty hard place to miss if you're in the city.

Here I am, listening to the audio guide. I got it mainly to cover my ears, it's cold and windy.



Cannon balls with a stranger's legs for scale.


My favorite part of the castle was St. Margaret's Chapel, the oldest building. The castle was invaded and sacked many times but the chapel was left alone.
 




Founding of the chapel

It was originally thought that St Margaret herself worshipped in this small chapel, but the style of the architecture indicates that it was built during the reign of David I, her fourth son, who ruled from 1124–1153.[3] The chapel formed part of a larger building, located to the north, which contained the castle's royal lodgings.[4]

On the night of 14 March 1314 the castle was captured by Robert the Bruce. He destroyed all the buildings in the castle, except for the little chapel. On his death bed in 1329, Bruce spoke of the story of Queen Margaret and issued orders for the chapel's repair, with some forty pounds Scots being put aside for that purpose. For many years afterwards the building was known as the "Royal Chapel in the Castle". There is a fairly frequent record of services held in the chapel, though another and larger chapel was also in use within the castle.


It's not a large space at all.

Disuse and restoration

The chapel fell into disuse at the Protestant Reformation, and was used as a gunpowder store from the 16th century. By 1845 the chapel formed a store room at the western end of the 18th century garrison chapel, when the antiquarian Sir Daniel Wilson realised the significance of the chapel and publicised the building. The garrison chapel was demolished and St Margaret's Chapel restored in 1851–1852 with the support of Queen Victoria. The barrel-vault over the nave was added at this time, in keeping with the architectural style of the earlier fabric.[2] The architect Hippolyte Blanc proposed an enlargement later in the 19th century, but this was rejected.[2] The stained glass was installed in 1922. In 1929 further work was carried out to bring the chapel back into use, and the restored and refurnished chapel was dedicated on 16 March 1934. 



 Other areas of the castle:

This is a dog cemetery.








The King James bible.


And now for some cellars where a horrible murder was committed. Known as "The Black Dinner" and said to have inspired "The Red Wedding" in Game of Thrones.

"In AD 1440, Crichton, Livingston, and James Douglas conspired to break the power of the late Archibald Douglas’s family and invited the 16-year-old William Douglas, 6th Earl of Douglas, and his younger brother to dine with the boy king at Edinburgh Castle.

According to legend, whilst they ate, a black bulls head was placed before William and his entourage which symbolised death. The two brothers were then dragged out to Castle Hill and given a mock trial with trumped-up charges, claiming they had protested against the king and were named as traitors to the crown and beheaded. In another account, the king pleaded for their lives, but the pleas were ignored, and they were beheaded in the castle yard."








Next up is the dungeons:

"Pirates and prisoners of war were once held in the vaults below Crown Square. In the 1700s and 1800s hundreds of prisoners of war were held in these dark, cramped spaces. Today, a recreation of the vaults as they would have looked around 1800 offers a glimpse into the grim way of life.

The first prisoners were French privateers caught in 1758, soon after the Seven Years’ War began. The youngest held was a five-year-old drummer boy captured at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805.

Prisoners of war came from France, America, Spain, the Netherlands, Ireland, Italy, Denmark and Poland. Most were sailors, many of them Americans fighting in the War of Independence. An early depiction of the ‘Stars and Stripes’ flag is scratched into a door. Many tried to escape. In 1811, 49 prisoners escaped through a hole in the defences that is still visible today. All but one made it safely down Castle Rock, but were recaptured.

Caribbean pirates were held in the vaults before they became a prison of war. In 1720, 21 members of Black Bart’s crew were captured off Argyll. They had come to Scotland to retire. Instead, most were hanged."










 

There is a lot more to see and we took many pictures but I can't post them all here. After we left the castle we had lunch at a place called The World's End Pub.


Then we went to the National Museum of Scotland where we saw the Millennium Clock do it's think on the hour.




We went up to the top floor to check out the views and the herb garden.


Back inside to look at more stuff.


The picture below shows the lantern from a lighthouse
We walked to Baba's for dinner which was pretty good except for the roasted Turkish peppers.


Hummus with crispy shwarma, pine nuts, and raisins, pita bread is served on the side.
Tasty marinated olives.
The Rosita cocktail, we liked them so much we had two each.

The infamous roasted Turkish peppers in a white cheese sauce. Don got a mild pepper but I only ate part of one because it was hot enough to actually hurt my mouth and throat! Then Don's second pepper was also hot enough to bring tears to his eyes. I complained to the server and her answer was "sometimes they're like that and sometimes they're okay". There should be some kind of warning on the menu or they shouldn't be served at all if they can't know if they're going to be mild or atomic.
Sweet potato with saffron cream. Very good.
 

May 22, 2022 - Day 53 - Stockholm, Sweden

  Today was probably the best day of our whole trip. Maria owns a tiny cottage in the heart of the city and we went there for the day. She b...